Copper Flashings - A Manual - 1925 - Page 8
Fig. 22. Where the design calls for a recessed dormer window the method of flashing shown in Fig. 22 and detailed at the left in Sections A-A, B-B, and C-C is recommended. Attention is called to the various seams which, as well as the copper roofing, are exaggerated in order to show clearly the methods employed. The sheathing of the sides of the recess and the hips of the dormer roofing are formed with standing locked seams. All the other seams are flat locked. The method of forming the seams is explained in detail in the text on page 49. The apron extending down the slope of the roof in front of the recess deck should lap the shingles at least 4 inches and the lower edge of the copper should be turned back on itself about ½ inch for stiffness. The upper part of the deck roofing should be carried up under the wood window sill as far as possible and nailed. The copper at the sides of the recess should lap the main roof under the shingles at least 2 inches and be secured by copper cleats to the wood sheathing. The shingles may extend out over this if the design requires it, but care must be taken in nailing the shingles not to puncture the copper. The roof copper of the dormer window is hooked over a brass edge-strip in the manner described on page 54 of the text, and extended up the slopes of the roof with flat seams between the sheets secured by copper cleats nailed to the sheathing, and with standing seams at the hips and ridges. If the roof and deck are quite flat the standing seams must be soldered. The roofing should extend far enough up on the main roof so that the roof shingles will cover the copper at least 4 inches. In any event it is necessary that the copper be covered by at least two thicknesses of shingles with broken joints.
Fig. 23. One method of forming a hanging gutter and securing it to a wood roof covered with shingles is shown in Fig. 23. The upper or roof edge is turned back on itself ½ inch to engage copper cleats about 12 inches apart, which are nailed to the roof by copper nails. The outer edge or roll of the gutter contains a bronze or brass bar. To this are riveted long copper straps of 1/16-inch metal about 30 inches apart extending up on the roof 3 or 4 inches above the upper edge of the copper gutter. Each strap is secured to the roof by 2 brass wood screws or nails. While it is a desirable feature for this form of gutter to be supported from below as well as from above, and a copper drip provided as shown, these features are not vital and may be omitted. Gutter-lining is sometimes used in long runs, but it is not shown in this detail as it does not affect the support of the gutter.
Fig. 24. Another type of gutter called a "Pole Gutter," is shown in Fig. 24. This is known in some localities as a "Gutter-Strip. " In this instance the gutter is placed on the roof instead of suspended from it. The upper edge of the flashing is turned back on itself and secured to the roof sheathing by copper cleats and nails. The lower edge is also turned back on itself ½ inch for stiffness. The copper should cover the shingles at least 4 inches. The shingles along the upper edge should lap the copper at least 4 inches and the copper should be covered by at least two thicknesses of shingle. The flashing is secured at the lower end by cleats fastened to the pole. For clearness these have not been shown in the detail of the seam.
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