Fig. 53. A copper gutter in a stone cornice and a connection to an inside leader is shown here. The flashing is in one piece and is made wide enough to connect with the gutter-lining by a soldered lock seam. The exact location of this seam depends upon the design. After the masonry is complete the gutter, if very long, is graded with a concrete fill and the copper lining placed. The copper is caulked into reglets in the cornice and the wall. (For a complete description of reglet construction see Fig. 55.) It is a wise precaution to make the top of the flashing at least 3 inches above the edge of the cornice so, if the outlet becomes clogged, the water will not rise above the flashing but will flow over the cornice edge.

   The drawing shows a special cast brass drain recommended for work of this character. It is manufactured by the Josam Manufacturing Co. The drain is connected to the house drainage-system by cast or wrought-iron pipe with all angles turned with fittings of an easy curve. The connection to the gutter-lining is made by a special double flange on the drain. Where it is impracticable to run the drain- pipe as close to the gutter as shown, a long lead goose-neck is used, connected to the iron pipe by a brass ferrule or caulking ring. The construction in either case allows for settlement in the building. This detail may also be used for reinforced-concrete cornices.

Fig. 54. This illustration shows another method of forming a gutter-lining in a stone cornice. In this case the flashing is in two pieces, cap and base. The cap flashing is caulked into a reglet, and, with the edge turned back on itself ½ inch for stiffness, is turned down over the base flashing to lap at least 4 inches. The outside edge of the base flashing is secured in a reglet near the outer edge of the cornice (for a complete description of the reglet construction see Fig. 55), and brought around the stone work and up against the parapet masonry, where it is held by the cap flashing turned down over it. About midway of the width of the gutter the two parts of the lining should be joined by a soldered flat-lock seam. In wide gutters (over 2 feet) this is secured to the sheathing by cleats. In exceptionally large gutters it is advisable to form a standing seam at the reglet for expansion as shown in detail "A." The grading of the gutter is done by sheathing laid over wood blocking. The gutter outlet described in Fig. 53 may be used with Fig. 54 as well. The sides of the gutter should be sloped somewhat, as shown, to allow for free movement of the copper, and to prevent ice in the gutter from pushing the corona stone out of place.

Fig. 55. Copper flashing laid over or against stone or concrete should be well secured to the masonry with a water-tight joint. To do this a reglet about 1 inch wide and 1 inch deep is cut in the stone or cast in the concrete. The surface edge should be true, but the interior sides and the bottom should be fairly rough as thereby a better bond for caulking is obtained. Some prefer also to flare the sides so the bottom of the reglet is wider than the top. This gives a better bond but costs more. The copper, formed as shown, is laid to the bottom of this cut and securely caulked in place. Molten lead is used for reglets in flat surfaces, and lead wool for upright work. To obtain the best results from this very important operation especial care must be taken to see that the copper goes well to the bottom of the reglet and that the caulking is thoroughly done. Some roofers fold the edge of the copper sheet back on itself ½ inch and place it in the reglet inclining to the bottom at an angle of 60° or so. After caulking the reglet is filled to the surface with elastic cement.

Fig. 56. When a stone balustrade is placed over a stone molded course forming the front of a metal-covered surface the metal is secured by a reglet. The copper is set as described in Fig. 55, and the reglet must be placed far enough back so that the bronze dowels holding the balustrades will not cut through the copper. The reglet is caulked as described in Fig. 55. Sometimes the flashing must be run as a continuous piece through the base course of the balustrade. In this case holes are cut in the flashing for dowels. Thimbles or caps (as described in Fig. 66) are placed over them and soldered to the flashing sheet. The stone is then set in place over the flashing.

Fig. 57. Copper lining for a stone band-course supported by steel construction is shown in Fig. 57. Such a course collects very little water so that the copper need not extend very far up on the slope of the stone to the line where it is secured by a caulked reglet, but the copper should be turned up against the wall high enough (about 4 inches above the top of the stone molding) so that the water cannot enter the building. The cap flashing is built into a reglet and turned down over the gutter-lining to lap 4 inches. One way of draining such a gutter is shown in Fig. 53.

Fig. 58. The base of a stone balustrade surrounding a balcony or similar projection should be flashed with copper as indicated in Fig. 58. The copper is secured on the outside of the balcony by a reglet cut in the base below the balusters. (For complete details of this reglet see Figs. 55 and 56). On the inside it is placed in a reglet, as shown on the left, formed in the face of the stone work and caulked with lead wool. A soldered lock seam should be formed in the middle of the gutter if it is more than 2 feet wide. Gutter connections in this type of construction may be made to the drainage-system as shown in Fig. 53.

   In this type of enclosed gutter it is essential that scuppers be built in the outside faces. They are not shown in the illustration because their size and location depend upon the design. They should be arranged so that the bottom of the scupper will be not more than 2 inches above the lowest point of the gutter and large enough so that the gutter will drain rapidly in case of stoppage of the outlet.

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